Japanese Knives
Your First Japanese Knife
What this is based on: published manufacturer specifications and retailer listings, cited on each product; the weight of professional and owner reviews across multiple retailers; and hands-on experience sharpening and cooking with knives of this type. We have not individually tested every model listed, we do not run instrumented sharpness testing, and we do not claim a test we did not run.
Quick picks
| # | Product | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |  Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808) | First Japanese knife | 8.6 | |
| 2 | MAC Professional 8" Chef's Knife with Dimples (MTH-80) | The one-knife kitchen | 8.8 | |
| 3 |  King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000 | Your first stone | 8.4 |
1. Shape: buy a gyuto
A gyuto is the Japanese chef's knife — same role as what you already use, so nothing about your technique has to change. A santoku is a legitimate alternative on a small board, but it wants a push-cutting grip and it has almost no point. A nakiri cannot touch protein at all.
For a first Japanese knife, versatility beats specialization. Buy the gyuto. If you want the full argument, read gyuto against santoku.
2. Size: 210mm, and measure your board
210mm is about 8.3 inches and it is the home default. The temptation is to buy 240mm because it looks more serious; resist it unless your board is 18 inches or longer. On a standard home board a 240mm gyuto overhangs and you stop using the tip.
Go to your kitchen and measure the board before you order. That one action prevents the most common regret in this category. More in the size guide.
3. Steel: stainless, 59 to 61 HRC
VG-10 is the default and it deserves to be: a cobalt-bearing stainless with roughly 15 percent chromium, run at 59 to 61 HRC, that takes a very fine edge and sharpens easily. It is what Tojiro's DP line uses and it is the core of Shun's VG-MAX.
Carbon steel — better cutting, easier sharpening, and it will rust while you answer the door. Come back to it in a year.
Powder steel (SG2, R2, HAP40) at 62 to 64 HRC — excellent edge retention, and considerably harder to sharpen and easier to chip. Wrong first knife. The comparison in detail.
4. Handle: Western, for now
| Western (yo) | Japanese (wa) | |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | Heavier, blade-balanced | Lighter, blade-forward |
| Bolster | Usually | No |
| Handed | No (except D-shapes) | Sometimes — D and octagonal shapes |
| Replaceable | Difficult | Yes, easily |
| Feels familiar? | Yes | No, at first |
One caveat: Shun's Classic line uses a D-shaped handle oriented for right-handed use. If you are left-handed, either pick a symmetrical handle or check the specific model.
5. Budget for the stone, not just the knife
This is the decision people skip, and it is the one that determines whether the knife is still good in two years. A Japanese knife holds an edge longer than a German one — and then it goes dull, and a pull-through sharpener will reprofile the thin geometry you just paid for.
A King KDS 1,000/6,000 combination stone costs a fraction of the knife and covers both sharpening and finishing. It needs a 10 to 15 minute soak on the 1,000 side and it dishes quickly, which are real annoyances — but it is soft and talkative, which is exactly what a beginner needs. How to use it.
Two more things to get right
- The board. Glass, stone, ceramic and bamboo will chip a thin edge. Soft rubber, hinoki or end-grain wood will not. Board guide.
- Storage. A loose drawer chips more tips than cutting does. A sheath costs almost nothing. Storage guide.
The three rules you now live by
- No bone, no joints, no frozen food. Keep a cheap heavy knife for those.
- Hand wash, dry immediately. Never the dishwasher, ever.
- Never a pull-through sharpener. Here is why.
What to actually buy
A Tojiro DP F-808 gyuto and a King KDS 1,000/6,000 stone. That combination costs less than many single mid-range knives and will teach you more about knives than any purchase twice its price. If the budget stretches and you already know you will look after it, the MAC MTH-80 is the better knife.
The picks in detail
#1 · First Japanese knife
Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808)
The default answer to 'my first real Japanese knife'. VG-10 at around 60 HRC in a plain three-layer build, at a price that makes the inevitable first chip survivable.
What it does well
- VG-10 at 59-60 HRC takes a genuinely fine edge and holds it far longer than a German knife at 56-58
- 1.9 mm spine and 43 mm heel make it thin behind the edge without being fragile
- Cheap enough that learning to sharpen on it is not frightening
Where it gives way
- Handle finish is functional and unlovely; some units need the bolster easing with sandpaper
- Stainless cladding is soft and scratches readily
- Nothing about the fit and finish will impress anyone
Skip it if: Anyone who wants the knife to be beautiful. The handle is a workmanlike composite with a stainless bolster and nothing about it is charming.
| Blade length | 210 mm (8.3 in) |
|---|---|
| Steel | VG-10 core, 13-chrome stainless cladding (san mai) |
| Hardness | 59-60 HRC |
| Heel height | 43 mm |
| Spine at heel | 1.9 mm |
| Weight | approx. 187 g |
| Handle | Western, laminated composite wood with stainless bolster |
#2 · The one-knife kitchen
MAC Professional 8" Chef's Knife with Dimples (MTH-80)
The knife that wins the most side-by-side tests and asks the least of you. Thin, light, 61 HRC, and forgiving enough that a mediocre sharpening job still cuts well.
What it does well
- 6.8 oz with a 2.5 mm spine — genuinely light in the hand over a long prep session
- 15 degrees per side from the factory, which is the angle you will maintain anyway
- 25-year warranty and a reputation for consistency unit to unit
Where it gives way
- Costs meaningfully more than a Tojiro DP for a similar hardness
- Mono-steel, so no cladding to protect the core if you drop it edge-first
- The dimples do less for release than the marketing implies
Skip it if: Anyone chasing maximum edge retention. At 61 HRC in a mono-steel it will not out-last a powder-steel blade, and the dimples are cosmetic more often than useful.
| Blade length | 8 in (approx. 200 mm) |
|---|---|
| Steel | Sub-zero tempered high-carbon molybdenum vanadium alloy |
| Hardness | 61 HRC |
| Edge angle | 15 degrees per side (double bevel) |
| Blade height | 1 7/8 in |
| Spine at heel | 2.5 mm |
| Weight | 6.8 oz |
| Handle | Riveted Pakkawood with integrated bolster |
#3 · Your first stone
King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000
The stone almost everyone learns on. Soft, forgiving, cheap, and it tells you loudly when your angle wanders.
What it does well
- Two useful grits in one block for the price of half a premium stone
- Soft binder builds slurry readily, which gives beginners real feedback
- Almost impossible to damage a knife on it
Where it gives way
- Dishes quickly and needs flattening often
- The soak is a real commitment — you cannot sharpen on a whim
- Slow on hard powder steels like SG2
Skip it if: Impatient people. The 1000 side wants a 10-15 minute soak before every session and the clay binder dishes fast.
| Grits | #1000 / #6000, combination |
|---|---|
| Binder | Clay |
| Soaking | #1000 side: 10-15 minutes. #6000 side: splash only |
| Size | 207 x 66 x 36 mm |
| Weight | approx. 956 g |
Common questions
What should my first Japanese knife be?
Should I buy stainless or carbon steel for my first one?
Do I need a whetstone straight away?
Western handle or Japanese wa handle?
How much should I spend?
Sources
Read next
Japanese Knives
Best Gyuto Knives
Japanese Knives
Gyuto vs Santoku: Which Should You Buy?
Japanese Knives
Best Japanese Knives Under $100
Whetstones & Skill
Best Whetstones for Kitchen Knives
Whetstones & Skill
How to Use a Whetstone
Steel & Care