Japanese Knives
Japanese Knife Sizes

What this is based on: published manufacturer specifications and retailer listings, cited on each product; the weight of professional and owner reviews across multiple retailers; and hands-on experience sharpening and cooking with knives of this type. We have not individually tested every model listed, we do not run instrumented sharpness testing, and we do not claim a test we did not run.
Quick picks
| # | Product | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808) | First Japanese knife | 8.6 | |
| 2 | ![]() MAC Professional 8" Chef's Knife with Dimples (MTH-80) | The one-knife kitchen | 8.8 | |
| 3 | ![]() MAC Professional 6.5" Santoku (MSK-65) | Precision vegetable work | 8.5 |
Lengths, in both systems
| Metric | Imperial | Common on | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| 120mm | 4.7 in | Petty | Small board work |
| 150mm | 5.9 in | Petty, small santoku | Trimming, segmenting |
| 165mm | 6.5 in | Santoku, nakiri | The standard for both |
| 180mm | 7.1 in | Short gyuto, long santoku | Small kitchens, small hands |
| 210mm | 8.3 in | Gyuto | The home default |
| 240mm | 9.4 in | Gyuto, sujihiki | Large boards, volume prep |
| 270mm | 10.6 in | Gyuto, sujihiki, yanagiba | Professional line work |
Why a 210mm knife is not always 8.3 inches
Japanese makers quote the cutting edge. Western makers often quote the blade including the part that disappears into the bolster. That is why a Tojiro DP listed as 210mm measures about 8.3 inches of edge, while a Wüsthof "8-inch" is 200mm — the Wüsthof is slightly the shorter knife despite the larger-sounding number.
Individual units also vary. The same Tojiro 210mm model is listed by different retailers at 210mm and 213mm of edge. A few millimeters either way changes nothing in use.
The measurement that matters
- Measure the usable length of your board — the flat area, not including any juice groove or raised lip.
- Subtract about four inches for the food you are cutting and the hand holding it.
- That is your working length. If it is under 9 inches, a 240mm knife will be fighting you.
Board 12–15 inches: 165–180mm. Board 15–18 inches: 210mm. Board 18 inches or more: 210mm or 240mm, your preference. If you want a bigger knife, the cheaper fix is usually a bigger board.
Height matters too
Blade height at the heel determines knuckle clearance. A 210mm gyuto is typically 43 to 47mm tall; a nakiri is around 45 to 50mm. Below about 40mm your knuckles start catching the board in a pinch grip, which is why a very long thin slicer is uncomfortable for general prep even though it is plenty long enough.
The verdict
210mm gyuto, unless your board tells you otherwise. The Tojiro DP F-808 and the MAC MTH-80 are both in that class and both are on the gyuto roundup. If your board is genuinely small, the MAC MSK-65 santoku at 6.5 inches is the honest alternative.
The picks in detail
#1 · First Japanese knife
Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808)
The default answer to 'my first real Japanese knife'. VG-10 at around 60 HRC in a plain three-layer build, at a price that makes the inevitable first chip survivable.
What it does well
- VG-10 at 59-60 HRC takes a genuinely fine edge and holds it far longer than a German knife at 56-58
- 1.9 mm spine and 43 mm heel make it thin behind the edge without being fragile
- Cheap enough that learning to sharpen on it is not frightening
Where it gives way
- Handle finish is functional and unlovely; some units need the bolster easing with sandpaper
- Stainless cladding is soft and scratches readily
- Nothing about the fit and finish will impress anyone
Skip it if: Anyone who wants the knife to be beautiful. The handle is a workmanlike composite with a stainless bolster and nothing about it is charming.
| Blade length | 210 mm (8.3 in) |
|---|---|
| Steel | VG-10 core, 13-chrome stainless cladding (san mai) |
| Hardness | 59-60 HRC |
| Heel height | 43 mm |
| Spine at heel | 1.9 mm |
| Weight | approx. 187 g |
| Handle | Western, laminated composite wood with stainless bolster |

#2 · The one-knife kitchen
MAC Professional 8" Chef's Knife with Dimples (MTH-80)
The knife that wins the most side-by-side tests and asks the least of you. Thin, light, 61 HRC, and forgiving enough that a mediocre sharpening job still cuts well.
What it does well
- 6.8 oz with a 2.5 mm spine — genuinely light in the hand over a long prep session
- 15 degrees per side from the factory, which is the angle you will maintain anyway
- 25-year warranty and a reputation for consistency unit to unit
Where it gives way
- Costs meaningfully more than a Tojiro DP for a similar hardness
- Mono-steel, so no cladding to protect the core if you drop it edge-first
- The dimples do less for release than the marketing implies
Skip it if: Anyone chasing maximum edge retention. At 61 HRC in a mono-steel it will not out-last a powder-steel blade, and the dimples are cosmetic more often than useful.
| Blade length | 8 in (approx. 200 mm) |
|---|---|
| Steel | Sub-zero tempered high-carbon molybdenum vanadium alloy |
| Hardness | 61 HRC |
| Edge angle | 15 degrees per side (double bevel) |
| Blade height | 1 7/8 in |
| Spine at heel | 2.5 mm |
| Weight | 6.8 oz |
| Handle | Riveted Pakkawood with integrated bolster |

#3 · Precision vegetable work
MAC Professional 6.5" Santoku (MSK-65)
The MTH-80's logic in a santoku: thin, light, 15 degrees per side, and consistent from unit to unit.
What it does well
- Extremely thin behind the edge for its price
- Same 15-degree factory geometry as the rest of the Professional line
- Light and neutral in the hand
Where it gives way
- Thin tip is easy to damage
- No bolster to protect your knuckles in a heavy grip
- Costs more than the Tojiro equivalent
Skip it if: Heavy jobs. It is thin, and thin blades dislike bone and frozen food.
| Blade length | 6.5 in |
|---|---|
| Steel | Sub-zero tempered high-carbon molybdenum vanadium alloy |
| Hardness | approx. 61 HRC (MAC Professional line) |
| Edge angle | 15 degrees per side |

Common questions
What size gyuto should I buy — 210mm or 240mm?
Why are Japanese knives measured in millimeters?
Is a bigger knife harder to control?
What length nakiri or santoku should I get?
Sources
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