Japanese Knives
How Many Kitchen Knives Do You Need?

What this is based on: published manufacturer specifications and retailer listings, cited on each product; the weight of professional and owner reviews across multiple retailers; and hands-on experience sharpening and cooking with knives of this type. We have not individually tested every model listed, we do not run instrumented sharpness testing, and we do not claim a test we did not run.
Quick picks
| # | Product | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808) | First Japanese knife | 8.6 | |
| 2 | ![]() Tojiro DP Nakiri 165mm (F-502) | First nakiri | 8.7 | |
| 3 | ![]() Victorinox Fibrox Pro 8" Chef's Knife | A beater, or a sanity check before you spend more | 7.0 | |
| 4 | ![]() King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000 | Your first stone | 8.4 |
The reason this question gets a confused answer is that the people answering it mostly sell knife blocks. A 15-piece set looks like better value than three knives at the same price, and it is not: the money is spread across six steak knives, a pair of shears, a honing rod of unknown quality, a wooden block and two or three blades that will never leave it.
Knife one: a 210 mm gyuto or 8 inch chef's knife
This is 80 percent of your cutting. It has a tip for detail work and seaming meat, a belly for rocking through herbs, and enough length to finish a slice in one pass. Buy the best one you can afford, because every improvement here compounds across every meal you cook. The Tojiro DP F-808 at around $75 is where the value is densest; our gyuto roundup covers the alternatives.
Knife two: the shape that covers knife one's weakness
Which one depends on what you cook. There are only two sensible answers:
- A nakiri, if your board is mostly vegetables. 45 mm tall, 1.8 mm at the spine, flat all the way along, so slices separate completely and your knuckles clear a cabbage. It is the biggest upgrade available to a kitchen that already owns a chef's knife. Gyuto versus nakiri sets out the trade.
- A petty at 120 to 150 mm, if you do more small work. Shallots, garlic, segmenting citrus, trimming a steak, anything where a 210 mm blade is unwieldy in the hand. Petty versus paring knife explains why the longer small knife is usually the better buy.
Knife three: the beater, and it should be cheap
This is the knife that keeps the other two alive. Bone-adjacent work, frozen food, squash with a stubborn skin, prying something, the knife you hand to a guest who offers to help. A Victorinox Fibrox Pro at 56 HRC rolls instead of chipping and comes back on a rod in seconds, which is exactly what you want from a blade whose job is to absorb abuse.
Skipping knife three is the most common and most expensive mistake. Every chipped Japanese knife we hear about came from a job that should have gone to a cheap tough blade. Why knives chip is the short version.
What to buy before knife four
| Three knives and a stone | A block set at the same price | |
|---|---|---|
| Main knife quality | VG-10, 59-60 HRC, 1.9 mm spine | Basic stainless, typically 55-57 HRC |
| Second shape | Chosen for how you cook | Chosen by the manufacturer |
| Edge in year three | Maintained on a 1000/6000 stone | Usually dull; the included rod only hones |
| Knives that get used | 3 of 3 | Typically 2 or 3 of 15 |
A King KDS 1000/6000 combination stone changes all three of your knives at once, permanently. There is no fourth knife that does that. Our stone picks are here.
The fourth and fifth, if you want them
- A bread knife, if you buy crusty loaves. Nothing else does the job and it never needs sharpening.
- A boning or utility knife, if you butcher at home regularly.
- A long slicer, if you carve roasts more than a few times a year. Otherwise a sharp gyuto drawn in one stroke is close enough.
Gyuto, then a stone, then the beater, then the second shape. Most people do it backwards — four knives, no stone — and end up with a drawer full of blades that all need sharpening and no way to do it.
The verdict
Three knives: a 210 mm gyuto, a second shape chosen for how you actually cook, and a cheap tough beater. Add a 1000/6000 stone before anything else, because it upgrades every knife you own at once. Everything beyond that is preference, and preference is fine — just buy it knowing it is preference rather than need. If you are at the start of this, start with the first-knife guide, and the shape glossary covers what each of these blades is called and why.
The picks in detail
#1 · First Japanese knife
Tojiro DP Gyuto 210mm (F-808)
The default answer to 'my first real Japanese knife'. VG-10 at around 60 HRC in a plain three-layer build, at a price that makes the inevitable first chip survivable.
What it does well
- VG-10 at 59-60 HRC takes a genuinely fine edge and holds it far longer than a German knife at 56-58
- 1.9 mm spine and 43 mm heel make it thin behind the edge without being fragile
- Cheap enough that learning to sharpen on it is not frightening
Where it gives way
- Handle finish is functional and unlovely; some units need the bolster easing with sandpaper
- Stainless cladding is soft and scratches readily
- Nothing about the fit and finish will impress anyone
Skip it if: Anyone who wants the knife to be beautiful. The handle is a workmanlike composite with a stainless bolster and nothing about it is charming.
| Blade length | 210 mm (8.3 in) |
|---|---|
| Steel | VG-10 core, 13-chrome stainless cladding (san mai) |
| Hardness | 59-60 HRC |
| Heel height | 43 mm |
| Spine at heel | 1.9 mm |
| Weight | approx. 187 g |
| Handle | Western, laminated composite wood with stainless bolster |

#2 · First nakiri
Tojiro DP Nakiri 165mm (F-502)
A flat 165 mm edge in VG-10 at 59-61 HRC for the price of a mid-range German paring knife. The obvious first nakiri.
What it does well
- 45 mm of blade height means your knuckles clear the board
- Genuinely flat edge — full contact, no accordion slices
- 1.8 mm spine falls through vegetables rather than wedging
Where it gives way
- No tip, so it cannot do fine tip work at all
- 207 g is heavier than the profile suggests
- Western handle and bolster feel dense for such a light job
Skip it if: Anyone expecting it to replace a chef's knife. A nakiri does not have a tip and cannot break down a chicken.
| Blade length | 165-170 mm |
|---|---|
| Steel | Takefu VG-10 core, three-layer |
| Hardness | 59-61 HRC |
| Heel height | 45 mm |
| Spine | 1.8 mm, consistent |
| Weight | approx. 207 g |

#3 · A beater, or a sanity check before you spend more
Victorinox Fibrox Pro 8" Chef's Knife
Not a Japanese knife and not pretending to be. It is the control sample: if your cooking does not improve after upgrading from this, the knife was never the problem.
What it does well
- Stamped, light and genuinely non-slip when wet
- Soft enough that a pull-through sharpener will not destroy it
- Costs a fraction of everything else here
Where it gives way
- 56 HRC means frequent honing and frequent sharpening
- 18-degree edge is blunt by Japanese standards
- No bolster, no heft, no presence — it feels like a tool because it is one
Skip it if: This site's usual reader. At 56 HRC with an 18-degree edge it is a softer, blunter tool than anything else on this page.
| Blade length | 8 in |
|---|---|
| Steel | X55CrMo14 high-carbon stainless |
| Hardness | 56 HRC |
| Edge angle | 18 degrees |
| Weight | 5.6 oz |
| Handle | Fibrox Pro thermoplastic elastomer, no bolster |

#4 · Your first stone
King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000
The stone almost everyone learns on. Soft, forgiving, cheap, and it tells you loudly when your angle wanders.
What it does well
- Two useful grits in one block for the price of half a premium stone
- Soft binder builds slurry readily, which gives beginners real feedback
- Almost impossible to damage a knife on it
Where it gives way
- Dishes quickly and needs flattening often
- The soak is a real commitment — you cannot sharpen on a whim
- Slow on hard powder steels like SG2
Skip it if: Impatient people. The 1000 side wants a 10-15 minute soak before every session and the clay binder dishes fast.
| Grits | #1000 / #6000, combination |
|---|---|
| Binder | Clay |
| Soaking | #1000 side: 10-15 minutes. #6000 side: splash only |
| Size | 207 x 66 x 36 mm |
| Weight | approx. 956 g |

Common questions
How many kitchen knives do you really need?
Is a knife set worth buying?
Do I need a paring knife?
Should I buy a bread knife?
Sources
Read next

Japanese Knives
Japanese Knife Types

Japanese Knives
Your First Japanese Knife

Japanese Knives
Best Japanese Knives Under $100

Japanese Knives
Gyuto vs Nakiri

Japanese Knives
Petty vs Paring Knife

Whetstones & Skill