Japanese Knives
Nakiri vs Usuba

What this is based on: published manufacturer specifications and retailer listings, cited on each product; the weight of professional and owner reviews across multiple retailers; and hands-on experience sharpening and cooking with knives of this type. We have not individually tested every model listed, we do not run instrumented sharpness testing, and we do not claim a test we did not run.
Quick picks
| # | Product | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() Tojiro DP Nakiri 165mm (F-502) | First nakiri | 8.7 | |
| 2 | ![]() Shun Classic 6.5" Nakiri (DM0728) | An upgrade nakiri | 8.3 | |
| 3 | ![]() King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000 | Your first stone | 8.4 |
Both knives exist to do the same thing: cut vegetables with a tall, flat, very thin blade. They look similar on a shelf. The difference is invisible until you turn one over, and it changes everything about owning it.
| Nakiri | Usuba | |
|---|---|---|
| Bevel | Double, both sides | Single, with a hollow-ground back |
| Typical length | 160-180 mm | 180-210 mm |
| Handed | No, either hand | Yes, ground for one hand |
| Sharpening | Both sides, any stone, no special order | Bevel plus back, specific sequence, flat stone essential |
| Typical steel | Clad stainless or stainless core | Often carbon, often unclad |
| Who buys it | Home cooks | Professional kitchens and specialists |
The usuba's hollow back, the urasuki, is the part people underestimate. It is a slight concavity ground into the flat side, and it has to be maintained — touched up on a stone in its own right. Sharpen a usuba carelessly a dozen times and you flatten the urasuki, at which point the knife needs professional thinning to be worth using again.
What a usuba is actually better at
- Katsuramuki. The rotating peel that turns a daikon into one continuous sheet two meters long. This is the job the shape exists for, and a double bevel genuinely cannot do it as well because the blade wants to steer out of the cut.
- The cleanest possible face on a dense vegetable. A single bevel can be thinner behind the edge for the same spine thickness, so there is less wedging and the cut surface is less bruised. On a carrot this is invisible. On a sheet of daikon destined for a garnish it is the point.
- Straight-line precision. With the flat side against the food you get a reference surface, which is why professional vegetable work in Japanese kitchens is done this way.
What it costs you
- A sharpening skill, not a sharpening session. A single bevel is sharpened bevel-first, then the back is deburred flat, and the stone has to be genuinely flat for the back work to be possible. Our sharpening walkthrough covers double bevels; a usuba is a step beyond it.
- Steering. A single bevel pushes the cut toward the flat side. Experienced users correct without thinking. New users produce wedges instead of slices and conclude the knife is faulty.
- Handedness. A right-hand usuba is awkward to useless in a left hand, and left-hand grinds carry a premium. Double-bevel nakiris are ambidextrous, which is why we recommend them in our left-handed guide.
- Usually carbon steel. Many usubas are unclad carbon, so they rust if left wet for ten minutes. That is manageable, but it is one more thing to learn at the same time.
If single bevels interest you, buy the nakiri now and a cheap single-bevel deba or usuba later, once you can put a repeatable edge on a double bevel freehand. Learning both at once means you cannot tell whether a bad result is your technique or the geometry. Single bevel versus double bevel explains the mechanics in full.
The verdict
Nakiri, for almost everyone reading this. Tojiro DP F-502 if you want the cheapest one worth owning, Shun Classic DM0728 if you want the upgrade and a pakkawood handle that works in either hand. Spend the difference on a decent 1000 and 6000 grit stone, because the thing that separates a good vegetable knife from a bad one in daily use is not bevel count — it is whether the edge was touched up this month. If you are still choosing between large shapes, gyuto versus nakiri is the more practical decision.
The picks in detail
#1 · First nakiri
Tojiro DP Nakiri 165mm (F-502)
A flat 165 mm edge in VG-10 at 59-61 HRC for the price of a mid-range German paring knife. The obvious first nakiri.
What it does well
- 45 mm of blade height means your knuckles clear the board
- Genuinely flat edge — full contact, no accordion slices
- 1.8 mm spine falls through vegetables rather than wedging
Where it gives way
- No tip, so it cannot do fine tip work at all
- 207 g is heavier than the profile suggests
- Western handle and bolster feel dense for such a light job
Skip it if: Anyone expecting it to replace a chef's knife. A nakiri does not have a tip and cannot break down a chicken.
| Blade length | 165-170 mm |
|---|---|
| Steel | Takefu VG-10 core, three-layer |
| Hardness | 59-61 HRC |
| Heel height | 45 mm |
| Spine | 1.8 mm, consistent |
| Weight | approx. 207 g |

#2 · An upgrade nakiri
Shun Classic 6.5" Nakiri (DM0728)
Flat-ground, double-bevelled to 16 degrees per side, 69-layer Damascus over a VG-MAX core. The nakiri for someone who already knows they want one.
What it does well
- Flat grind gives excellent release on dense vegetables
- Handle works for left-handed cooks, unlike the D-shaped Classic chef's knife
- Kai's lifetime warranty applies
Where it gives way
- Several times the price of the Tojiro for a knife doing the same job
- Thin tip corners are easy to ding on the board
- Damascus cladding is cosmetic
Skip it if: A first nakiri. Buy the Tojiro, decide you use it, then buy this.
| Blade length | 6.5 in (165 mm) |
|---|---|
| Steel | VG-MAX core, 34 Damascus layers each side (69 total) |
| Edge | Double bevel, flat ground, 16 degrees per side |
| Handle | Pakkawood, usable left or right handed |

#3 · Your first stone
King KDS Combination Whetstone #1000/#6000
The stone almost everyone learns on. Soft, forgiving, cheap, and it tells you loudly when your angle wanders.
What it does well
- Two useful grits in one block for the price of half a premium stone
- Soft binder builds slurry readily, which gives beginners real feedback
- Almost impossible to damage a knife on it
Where it gives way
- Dishes quickly and needs flattening often
- The soak is a real commitment — you cannot sharpen on a whim
- Slow on hard powder steels like SG2
Skip it if: Impatient people. The 1000 side wants a 10-15 minute soak before every session and the clay binder dishes fast.
| Grits | #1000 / #6000, combination |
|---|---|
| Binder | Clay |
| Soaking | #1000 side: 10-15 minutes. #6000 side: splash only |
| Size | 207 x 66 x 36 mm |
| Weight | approx. 956 g |

Common questions
What is the difference between a nakiri and a usuba?
Should a home cook buy a usuba?
Is a usuba sharper than a nakiri?
Are usubas left or right handed?
Sources
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